Joyeux Noel

"Christmas is the season for kindling the fire of hospitality in the hall"

One of the things I wondered about as I planned my year abroad was the thought of where to spend Christmas.  This is a year to try new things and, although I have some fabulous traditions with my own family and I knew I would miss them, I also knew that it was an opportunity to see how the holiday is celebrated in another part of the world.  The challenge was finding friends who didn't mind opening up their home and sharing their family festivities with me.  

Sylvie Farnier and I have been friends since college.  Our dads worked together for years and our visits over time have included shopping trips in Freeport and strolls down the Champs Elysees.  So when I called to ask if my mom and I could celebrate Christmas with her family she answered, "Mais oui, but of course!" 

We arrived at the Farnier's farm in Laversines, a small village north of Paris, on Christmas Eve.  The house was full of busy anticipation.  Yves and Mary Alice, Sylvie's parents met us at the door with the traditional double cheek kiss -  fait la bise - a lovely tradition that I am trying to perfect as I am often starting in the wrong direction and bumping heads!  

Fruit from their home in southern France.

A fire was going in the fireplace, the house was decorated with garlands and a beautiful tree, and the wonderful smells coming from the kitchen were absolutely intoxicating!  Clearly we had come to the right place to experience a French Christmas! 

Speaking of "intoxicating", Yves claims that "de l'eau de Laversine" is a little special.  I think that might be because the water served at the Farnier's home comes from an incredible cellar. 

 Yves headed down the moss covered stairs to the special cellar - the family vault!

Checking out the choices - this water seems a little old to me!

The Farniers are a family that truly appreciates fine food.  Mary Alice is an amazing cook, Sylvie's brother Eric owns a creperie in the Montparnasse section of Paris, and her niece Cecile is interested in carrying on the family art form and attending cooking school. This is a household that knows how to celebrate!

First the stage is set

For my best description of this meal I need to quote one of my favorite women, Julia Child:  "After one taste of French food....I was hooked.  I'd never eaten like that before, I didn't know such food existed.  The wonderful attention paid to each detail of the meal was incredible to me.  I'd never really drunk good wine before, and knew nothing at all about it.  It was simply a whole new life experience."

And so it was.  We began with fresh oysters, salty but not fishy.  Next came a whole smoked salmon, served on its own special dish,  and two different kinds of caviar. I had to try lots of each to decide which one I liked best.  I couldn't choose.   Next came the foie gras and a different wine to compliment the flavor.  

 Enjoying the meal, and some spirited discussion.  Sylvie's nephew Nicolas helped me translate.

 This wine went with the second meat course, which was a roasted capon stuffed with a ground pork dressing.  The first meat course was white sausage.  I can't remember the vegetable course because I keep thinking of the amazing endive in curry sauce that we had the next day with the wild boar.

A toast!

The cheese course - my favorite was the heart shaped coeur de neufchatel

Sylvie and I celebrate the "bird" and "cage" tradition with the buche de noel

The feasting and celebrating went on for hours.  It was incredible.  Before I knew it midnight had arrived, and it was time for Pere Noel.

 Gifts around the table.

Amazingly, Pere Noel knew that the cadeau my chic amie Parisien needed most was ear muffs!  

"...et le plus beau cadeau que Sylvie a reçu c'est le fabuleux protege oreilles et foulard turquoise"  - translated by Sylvie

My mom and I had a fabulous time celebrating Christmas with the Farnier family.  Their hospitality is legendary and I look forward to hosting a new generation of Farniers on the other side of the Atlantic.  I wonder if they will come for Thanksgiving?